For centuries, Yemen has been a land of mythology and mystery, a land where Gilgamesh searched for the secret of eternal life and where three wise men came in search of frankincense and myrrh. For so long it has been shrouded from Western eyes; unknown, unobserved and oblivious to the world. The oil reserves upon which it’s small wealth are based are paltry when compared to its richer neighbours and without such ostentatious riches its ancient charms remain unchanged and uncorrupted by 20th century excess.
The rich concoction of African and Arabian flavours makes for some delightful urban exploration, while the heritage is almost unparalleled – the romantic capital Sana’a is the oldest city on earth. Shabim can feel almost as aged, though it’s still a sprightly eighteen centuries young, while Zabid is not only an important World Heritage Site but the hottest city on the planet. In the deserts you can still see the nomadic Bedouin following routes unchanged for millennia.
This beautiful, breathless country can leave you feeling translated in time to an era long ago, yet in truth this is a nation on the cusp of something new. The oil wells are due to run dry by the end of the decade and the government has long been in discussion with the IMF over economic and social reform programmes. As the process of modernisation gathers pace this will increasingly become a country ripe with opportunity; only time will tell how this relatively new democracy will embrace the 21st century.
Getting there
Most visitors arrive by air into Sana’a. Border crossings with Oman are possible and relatively painless. Crossing into Saudi Arabia is not possible for foreigners. There are no regular ferries.
Getting around
Buses run to most major cities and are safe and punctual. Taxis are best for getting around town. If you want to drive, consider getting a car with a driver; it’s cheaper and the driver will be an invaluable aid for navigation and advice.
Local information
Language(s): Yemeni, Arabic, Yemenite
Time: UTC+3
Climate: Arid. Very hot and dry throughout the year. Temperature: Max 37°C (June), Min 23°C (January). Rainfall: negligible throughout year.
Currency: Yemeni Rial (YER)
Business etiquette: Dress smartly for meetings and formal social occasions. Greet with a firm handshake and a smile. Appointments are necessary and punctuality is important. English is widely used for business meetings.
Tipping: Tipping is not widely practised.
Duty free: 600 cigarettes, 60 cigars or 450g tobacco; 2 bottles alcoholic beverage; 1 bottle perfume; gifts to YER100,000.
Safety: Car-jacking occurs; drive with doors locked and windows up.
Laws: Preaching non-Islamic religion is illegal.
Healthcare: Vaccinations required for diphtheria, hepatitis A, tetanus and typhoid. Avoid swimming in unchlorinated water. Most cities have hospitals but medical facilities in rural areas are poor; medical insurance is essential.
Socket type: Type A, Type D and Type G
