After decades of colonialism, communism, civil war and now rapidly accelerating globalisation, Vietnam today is an emerging market country where the excesses of capitalism have yet to ruin its glorious natural legacy. Forest-covered mountains and verdant rice fields inland are trumped only by a lavish coastline littered with tropical lagoons, dramatic peninsulas and white beaches shaded by lazy palm fronds.
Hanoi can overwhelm at first, with its hordes of motorcycles and hawkers, but this colourful chaos is just part of the charm of this city layered with grace and style. Life is slower in Hoi An, where residents and visitors alike sit on splendid terraces sampling delicious seafood delicacies, before taking quiet strolls along the waterfront where the shellfish are still gathered by hand.
For the historically minded, there are many surviving Cham ruins, such as the Hindu temple at Po Nagar. Relics of the war, like the tunnel complex at Vinh Moc built as a bomb shelter, are also well worth exploring. You can escape into the jungle at Cat Tien National Park – though watch out for elephants, rhinos and crocodiles – while natural coral reef and abundant marine fauna are ideal for diving.
The people are friendly, though public etiquette demands more personal space than much of east Asia. Face is important and they will always go out of their way to retain dignity and honour. If you travel with an attitude of curiosity, and not conquest, you are unlikely to receive a warmer welcome anywhere you go.
Getting there
The main international airport is at Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and Danang also take foreign flights. There are buses from China, Laos and Cambodia; be sure to have a visa before arriving at the border.
Getting around
Hiring a car is affordable and often most practical. Buses are cheap with good coverage but often overcrowded; trains are slower but more comfortable.
Local information
Language: Vietnamese
Time: UTC+7
Climate: Tropical monsoon. Hot wet summers and warm dry winters. Temperature: Max 34°C (June), Min 13°C (January). Rainfall: Max 340mm (August), Min 20mm (January).
Currency: Dong (VND)
Business etiquette: Dress conservatively. Handshakes are used on meeting and departing, usually only between members of the same sex. In meetings, the most senior person should enter the room first. Negotiations can be slow and there is much red tape before decisions are made.
Tipping: No rigid guidelines.
Duty free: 200 cigarettes; 100 cigars or 500g of tobacco; 2l of alcohol. A reasonable quantity of perfume.
Safety: Drink-spiking and scams targeting tourists have been reported.
Laws: Gambling outside licensed casinos is illegal. Written permission should be obtained to visit border areas near China, Laos or Cambodia.
Healthcare: Vaccinations required for diphtheria, hepatitis A, tetanus, typhoid, tuberculosis and hepatitis B. There are hospitals in the main cities but elsewhere healthcare is limited and there is a lack of medicines. Health insurance is essential and should include emergency repatriation.
Socket type: Type A, Type C, Type G.
