Immortalised by Homer’s Illiad, the ruins of Troy are now just one of the countless ancient monuments littering Turkey’s dramatic landscape. After Alexander the Great came the Romans, Seljuks and the Ottomans before the modern day republic. Ancient aqueducts and medieval bridges can still be found, as can many Islamic medresses and still-active caravanserais along the historic Silk Road.
Today Turkey is as contested as ever; major highways and government projects in the 1950s and 60s has laid the way for highly modern cities with prodigious local infrastructure, yet some rural villages in the more arid east appear to belong in the Anatolian Civilisations Musuem. The raging battle between secular western liberalism battles and Islamic eastern conservatism makes for a fascinating and chaotic cultural landscape. In the middle of this feisty mixing pot sits Istanbul, one of the hippest cities on the continent, where hi-octane nightlife of ever colour and variety can be sampled until the early hours of the morning.
Centuries of turmoil and ideological differences have created a people among the most passionate on Earth. Whether for food, football or music, no reception is ever lukewarm. Expect to spend time fostering a relationship before you do business – usually over extended dinners or weekend sports. Never assume that you can charm your way to a business deal though; the Turks are shrewd negotiators and they will grill you relentlessly about any proposal you may present.
Getting there
The Atatürk and Sabiha Gökçen international airports are both located near Istanbul. There are car ferries from Italy and Greece. Border crossings by land are possible, but neighbourly relations can be tense so check they are open before making the trip.
Getting around
High competition keeps fares low on an extensive domestic flight network. Buses are comfortable and efficient with a wide reach. The train network is less extensive and often slower, except on some important routes.
Local information
Language: Turkish
Time: UTC+2
Climate: Mediterranean. Hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters. Temperature: Max 33°C (July), Min 6°C (January). Rainfall: Max 260mm (December), Min 2mm (July-August)
Currency: Turkish lire (TRY)
Business etiquette: Suits are the norm; in summer a shirt is acceptable. Relationships take time to build. First impressions are important; initial proposals should be clear, well thought out and contain detailed supporting information.
Tipping: 10 percent for waiters and hotel staff.
Duty free: 200 cigarettes and 50 cigars; two bottles of wine and/or spirits; five bottles of perfume; gifts to Ä255.65; electronics to Ä255.65; reasonable quantities of coffee and tea.
Safety: Political rallies often turn violent.
Laws: Mount Ararat is a special military zone and requires a permit; it is illegal to take photographs of military installations. Exporting antiquities is illegal and could result in jail. Displays of public affection could result in prosecution.
Healthcare: Vaccinations required for diphtheria, hepatitis A and tetanus. Main cities have large hospitals with healthcare at a reasonable cost. Rural facilities are more primitive. Health insurance is recommended.
Socket type: Type C