After tempestuous political conflict during the 1980s, Latvia gained independence from Soviet rule in the early nineties. Since then it has experienced rapid economic growth and even more rapid economic decline – the recession that hit in 2008 set a new world record as the economy shrank 25 percent in two years. Civil unrest and protest against right-wing government misrule have failed to halt the decline, yet despite its problems Latvia remains one of the undiscovered gems of Europe.
The cobbled streets of Riga, once dubbed the ‘Paris of the East’, combine medieval architecture replete with spires and turrets with a funky, vibrant chic that is unparalleled elsewhere in the Baltic region. Beyond the city, visitors can go hiking or mountain biking in the Gauja National Park, through enchanting pine forests atop ochre cliffs of Devonian sandstone, or explore the untouched coastline of Cape Kolka and the upmarket seaside resort of Jūrmala for a taste of the blue Baltic Sea.
The real pleasure of Latvia, though, is its lack of pretention. Despite its rapid modernisation it remains relatively untouched by many of the excesses of the west. Mushroom hunters foray at the sides of highways each fall, hippies and punksters chill together in eye-catching postmodern tea houses, while homemade delights and prime butcher cuts can be purchased in unmarked jars from the many street markets. Old and new, west and east, rich and poor – Latvia can be a schizophrenic experience that is warmly remembered by almost all who visit.
Getting there
International flights go to Riga from most European countries, with budget fares available on most routes. Trains provide direct links to Moscow, St Petersburg, Kyiv, Lviv and Vilnius, with connections to further destinations. Eurolines and Ecolines provide a number of bus routes out of Riga.
Getting around
Latvia is a compact country with good train and bus links between cities. To delve deeper into the countryside you are likely to need a car, though hitching is popular.
Local information
Language: Latvian
Time: UTC+2
Climate: Continental. Warm summers, cold winters, rainfall throughout the year. Temperature: Max 22°C (July), -10°C (January). Rainfall: Max 75mm (July), Min 25mm (March).
Currency: Lat (LVL)
Business etiquette: Suits should be worn. It is important to shake hands with everybody at a meeting. Business cards are then exchanged between individuals not acquainted. Professional or academic titles are used. Business proceedings are formal.
Tipping: 10 percent in high class restaurants; otherwise according to discretion.
Duty free: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco; 1l alcoholic beverages over 22 percent, 2l alcoholic beverages under 22 percent; 50g of perfume;250ml of eau de toilette; Medication for personal use (requires documentary confirmation).
Safety: Check drink prices before ordering; some bars have been known to charge extortionate prices. Car theft is common.
Laws: Long jail sentences and heavy fines for even small drug offences. Driving offences also have harsh penalties.
Healthcare: Vaccinations required for diphtheria, hepatitis A and tetanus.
Socket type: Type C
