If you’re looking for a city break with style, there are few better places to do it than in the cosmopolitan hub that is Paris. Famed as being the city of love, there’s much more to Paris than late-night walks along the left bank and stolen kisses at the top of the Eiffel Tower. Few places are as effortlessly sophisticated as France’s capital city. Always on the move and ever-changing there’s more than enough to occupy any visitor for a day, week, month or a lifetime.
Famous museums such as The Louvre and the Musee D’Orsay are just the tip on the iceberg when it comes to the city’s vast collections of all things art-related. The home of many of fashion’s biggest names, those looking for a spot of retail therapy will not be disappointed – from quirky boutiques to high-end department stores, there’s enough to entertain even the most dedicated shopper. And when it comes to dining, few people do it better than the French where a casual lunch can become a work of art and where there are almost more Michelin-starred restaurants than metro stops.
Seeing the sights
Though people might turn their noses up at hitting the well-beaten tourist track, first time visitors shouldn’t miss out on the city’s treasures, no matter how many thousands have marvelled at their beauty before. Yes, almost every visitor to the city will take a trip the Eiffel Tower, but that doesn’t make the view from the top of arrondissment after arrondisment spreading out from the Seine any less magnificent.
The city’s architecture relays its full and often turbulent history. Turn any corner and you’ll find buildings dating from different centuries, each one with its own unique story to tell. From the imposing facades of the Sacre Coeur and Notre Dame to the quaint and simple lines of the Eglise de St Germain des Pres, there’s so much to discover.
Tucked away behind the Palais de Versailles, the Unesco world heritage Jardin des Tuileries is just as elegant and relaxing a place to take a stroll as it was when it opened centuries ago. Key historical figures such as Voltaire, Victor Hugo and Jean-Jacques Rosseau are buried in the gloomy interiors of the Pantheon, or commemorate the French Revolution at the monument in the Place de la Bastille, or admire the 3,300-year-old obelisk at Place de la Concorde – your options are endless.
Museum lovers find their home in Paris, where one museum alone can demand several days to explore thoroughly. One of the oldest and arguably the most famous of them all, The Louvre contains an impressive 35,000 exhibits housed in buildings that date back to the 12th century. Attracting over six million visitors yearly, it’s advisable to avoid the museum at peak times.
However apart from the room housing the Mona Lisa, which is almost always entertaining a steady stream of onlookers, it can often be surprisingly quiet as you wander from section to section. The collections span the history of French art up until 1848 – the year of the French Revolution. In addition to works of French origin, it’s collections of Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Islamic pieces should not be missed. (place du Louvre, 40205317).
Across the river, the Musee D’Orsay picks up where the Louvre finishes. Housed in a former railway station, the museum’s collection mainly covers the period between 1848 and 1915 and includes a vast amount of impressionist pieces by Degas, Van Gogh, Manet, Monet, Renoir and Cezanne, to mention a few. (62, rue de Lille, 40494814)
While the Louvre and the Musee D’Orsay often dominate the city’s art scene with their extensive collections, they are by no means all it has to offer. For those whose tastes run more to contemporary pieces, the Foundation Cartier Pour l’Art Contemporain is a stunning building that hosts temporary exhibits of all genres and styles of contemporary art. (261 blvd Raspail, 42 18 56 50) when it comes to museums dedicated to one artist, the choice is unsurpassable – Picasso, Edith Piaf, Dali, Rodin and Monet are among those who merit their own spaces.
Across from the Eiffel Tower the Palais de Tokyo exhibits works of the crème de la crème of modern art including Jeff Koons and Vanessa Beecroft. The dominating space is the perfect antidote to those who are tired of the city’s more traditional museums and contains a bookshop that’s great for picking up beautiful books to adorn your coffee table back at home. (13 av du Président Wilson, 47 23 38 86)
Shopping
Parisians are famed for always being immaculately turned out, the very definition of haute couture – a look that’s aided by the countless boutiques and stores packed with chic items and this season’s trends. When paired with the off the wall boutiques – the perfect places for buying gifts for those at home – it becomes clear that shopping in Paris is an experience that can be rivalled by few cities.
At present buying time, forget the tacky Eiffel tower replicas and ‘I love Paris’ t-shirts and plump for something with a bit more personality. The Champs Elysees remains one of the city’s shopping hubs: the flagship Guerlain store has been brought into the 21st century with a redesign by Andree Putman but the age-old atmosphere of pampering that comes with their cosmetics and perfumes lives on. (68 Av des Champs Élysées, 45 62 52 57)
If you can manage to resist the temptation to eat them all yourself, the jars and boxes at Fouquet filled with expensive and tasty confectionery are the perfect gifts to take back with you, as are the jars of foie gras on sale at La Petite Scierie. (60 rue Saint Louis en l’Ile, 55 42 14 88)
The business of buying for others under wraps, it’s only fair you get a thing or two for yourself. The area of Faubourg Saint-Honore is where to go if you are looking for some designer threads. Along the road from the Louvre, you’ll find big names such as Hermes, Versace and Yves St Laurent to sate your shopping fix.
Alternatively, Boulevard Haussmann is the place to go to get lost in the city’s impressively large department stores. Printemps and Galeries Lafayette are the main draws here: an afternoon in Galeries Lafayette is like a lesson in fashion, packed as it is with almost every conceivable designer brand and provides plenty of opportunity to buy a few extra pieces to put into the suitcase. (40, Boulevard Haussmann, 42 82 34 56)
The timeless beauty of Printemps offers a similarly decadent shopping experience, along with the largest amount of floor space dedicated to cosmetics of any department store in the world. For those who aren’t particularly enamoured by clothes, the stores also sell high-end homeware, gourmet food, jewellery and electronics. (64 Boulevard Haussmann, 42 82 50 00)
But shopping in Paris isn’t all about big brand names. The Marais is the place to go to find eclectic one-off pieces, and a home away from home for art and antique lovers. The up-and-coming darlings of fashion are mainly located on the Rue des Rosiers, while the Place des Vosges is home to a number of antique shops and small art galleries. St Germain des Pres is another good area for smaller boutiques and lesser-known designers.
If that’s still not to your tastes, the Saint-Ouen flea market is guaranteed to rouse the interest of even the most shopping-averse. The largest flea market in the city, you can spend hours browsing the antique furniture, vintage clothes and other miscellaneous items to be found in the treasure trove of stalls.
Dining
Paris is sure not to disappoint anyone who is willing to abandon themselves to its gastronomic delights. Few cities can boast of population of epicureans who take the business of eating as seriously.
Just a stone’s throw from the Louvre and the Jardin des Tuileries on Rue de Rivoli, Angelina’s is a great stop for a little afternoon decadence. Their gloriously thick chocolate l’Africain has won over many a patron with each rich, flavourful sip. And when that fails, the Mont Blanc, their other signature dish, a meringue confection filled with cream and chestnut cream, strides in to save the day. (226 Rue de Rivoli, 42 60 82 00)
Round the corner, Jean Paul Hevin serves up an altogether different afternoon experience. Expert chocolatier Hevin creates a range of toothsome tartelettes and confectionery to satisfy even the most fanatic chocolate lover. All the pieces on offer can be expertly paired with one of the many aromatic teas on offer by the knowledgeable staff. (231 Rue St Honore, 55.35.35.96)
After dark, the city’s dining scene comes to life. You’re sure to find something to suit your palate, whether you’re looking for a casual bistro affair or a ten course gastronomic feast. The seafood dishes at L’Ecume St – Honore have placed the eatery firmly on the city’s dining map – choose from the endless varieties of lobster and build up to the mouth-wateringly fresh seafood platter (6 Rue du Marché-St.-Honoré, 42 61 93 87)
Another favourite can be found in Le Comptoir, whose small space remains packed night after night. You might wonder at people’s willingness to wait for a table in a city where there are so many bistros serving similar fare, that is until you try the food. Bursting with flavour and depth, each dish at Comptoir is well worth a long wait (9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 44 27 07 97)
If you’re bursting to dip your fork into a Michelin-starred dish or two, there are many places willing to oblige. Joel Roubouchon’s L’Atelier is a culinary performance worthy of attention. With seats encircling a central bar behind which chefs prepare dishes, you can watch as they work their culinary magic. The tapas style portions make it easy to explore the menu and can be paired with wines from the expansive wine list. (5, rue de Montalembert,42 22 56 56)
Nightlife
Like any European capital, Paris has no shortage of entertainment to keep you awake into the early hours of the morning. If you’ve found the sightseeing of the day a bit of a drain, unwind with a few laughs at the Comedie Francaise. Doing exactly what the title suggests, France’s oldest theatre entertains crowds with comedies both old and new – just make sure your language skills are up to the challenge as most performances are in French. (place Colette, 08 25 10 16 80) Or, get your evening kicks at the Folies-Bergere in the style of Charlie Chaplin, Hemingway and Josephine Baker, former patrons and performers at this age-old institution. The club hosts musicals most evenings – Caberet is a particular favourite. (32 rue Richer, 44 79 98 98)
For something a little more laid back, Le Caveau de la Huchette is the city’s most famous jazz club. With the who’s who of the genre having graced the stage at one point or another (former players include Count Basie and Memphis Slim), it’s no wonder that Le Caveau still attracts jazz greats to work their magic in the underground cellar setting. (5 rue de la Huchette, 43 26 65 05)
Enchanting, brash and loud, the Moulin Rouge continues to be the heart and soul of Parisian nightlife. The world’s most famous caberet, it’s inspired endless spinoffs, posters and the film of the same name. Get caught up in the fervour as the performers sing, dance and high-kick their way through the night aided by opulent costumes and a breathtaking set. (82 blvd de Clichy, 53 09 82 82)
Where to stay
The city’s preoccupation with style and class isn’t just limited to clothes and accessories: Paris is home to some of the chicest hotels to be found in any city, many of which make for the perfect base from which to explore each day. Accommodation ranges from century old grand-dames of the hotel scene such as the Ritz to designer-clad funky and cosmopolitan newcomers, like Hotel Costes, not forgetting the city’s traditional hotels, often served with lashings of character and friendly service.
If you want to go all out, you needn’t look further than the Meurice. Perched on the edge of the rue de Rivoli and overlooking the Jardin des Tuileries, the Meurice is arguably Paris’s most sensational hotel. The centuries’ old exterior gives way to a gold, marble and glass interior that manages to stay on the right side of understated. Many of the rooms have stunning views over the Jardin and the Michelin-starred restaurant should not be missed. (228 rue de Rivoli, 44581010, www.meuricehotel.com)
At the other end of the spectrum are places such as Costes. Thoroughly modern and effortlessly chic, Costes is the beautiful but slightly wild child of the Parisian hotel family. By day its lavish style and opulently decorated rooms hum with activity, by night, top DJ Stephane Pompougnac takes to the decks and spins chillout tunes into the early hours (239 rue St-Honoré, 4244 5000)
The owners of the famous Cowley Manor hotel in the UK have made a scene with their simply-named, extravagant L’Hotel.
The final home of Oscar Wilde during his stint in the city and favourite haunt of celebrities in the sixties and seventies, L’Hotel’s individualistic rooms are a far cry away from the soulless chain hotel rooms that dominate much of the city’s hotel scene (13 rue des Beaux-Arts, 44419900)
