St Basil’s Cathedral
Every photographers dream, this cathedral has the power to convert the staunchest atheist. Striking one of the most vivid images even on Moscow’s substantially decorated skyline, closer inspection is warranted. Inside, wander spiral staircases shrouded in incense mist and find yourself inside the many vestibules under soaring ceilings, all of which have been created with incredible intricacy. The legend that the creators of the cathedral were blinded upon its completion to prevent anything similar ever being created again seems unnecessary since St Basil’s is a genuine one-off. Judge for yourself.
Traditional folk show
Despite the emergence of a moneyed new generation, there remains a real sense of tradition and nostalgia. Whether this takes the form of fashion, where iconography of the soviet era (the old CCCP emblem or the 1980s Olympic symbol) are emblazoned on top end fashion items, or the intense pride apparent at the folk shows that are attended not only by tourists but by scores of Russias who still yearn for the upkeeping of the values of yesteryear. Expect flamboyant costumes, spectacularly ostentatious dance routines harking back to a bygone era, and perhaps more than anything a sense that tradition is definitely not being lost amid the oil-rich surge to modernity.
Kremlin and Red Square
Set within a red-walled enclosure, the Kremlin is located in the centre of a meander of the Moskva River, and forms the focal point of the city alongside Red Square. Home to the President of Russia, it warrants an extended wander up through the collection of towering cathedrals, palaces and regal buildings between which soldiers perform intricate horse-led guard-changing ceremonies, keeping visitors on their toes at all times. The beautiful Cathedral of the Twelve Apostles houses all manner of icons and frescoes, while its slightly raised location offers excellent views of the city. Red Square boxed in by St Basils Cathedral, the Kremlin and the GUM store and houses the sombre procession of those wishing to pay their respects at Lenin’s mausoleum.
Moscow Metro
Although embarking on a mode of public transportation may not often reach a must-do list for any location, this, the world’s busiest metro system is somewhat special. Lovingly crafted with ornate ceilings and famous for its art, murals, mosaics, and ornate chandeliers, it connects the city efficiently and efectively. Just be sure to have the Cyrillic translations to hand…
Tour by night
Although establishing a firm grasp of the city’s geography during the day with the help of the metro is one thing, a tour by car at night will cause you to fall in love with the city. The beauty of the aforementioned St Basil’s Cathedral and Red Square is as one may expect, but further afield there lies a wealth of glittering sights. The Novodevichy convent, Patriarch Ponds and the Bolshoi Theatre are just three of the highlights that demand a visit. The University, set up one of Moscow’s only hills offers a view of the extent of the city while the neon glow from the casinos and motels on Novy Arbat comes in contrast to the more sombre strip of parks, statues and fountains that precedes it. Ask in your hotel for a chauffeured guide.
Drink on Ritz Carlton roof terrace
Lavish new hotels are springing up in central Moscow to accommodate the new wave of visitor, yet few can rival the roof terrace of the Ritz Carlton for the vantage on offer. Located on the elegant Tverskaya street a mere stones throw from Red Square and the Kremlin, a visit to the bar can leave you intoxicated with a view stretching from East to West taking in the stark beauty of Stalin’s ‘Seven Sisters’ – a collection of striking buildings commissioned by the former leader bearing very similar architectural features – the Ostankino tower – the tallest free standing structure in Eurasia – and the myriad domes and cathedrals Moscow’s skyline features.
Heaven nightclub
One of the most prestigious nightclubs in the capital, this is where a true appreciation of the new Russia can be gained – face control on the door in such a venue is not just rumour – the beautiful people of Moscow plus the token presence of moneyed foreigners (and perhaps the occasional journalist) are the clientele, who are immersed in a world of spectacle – lasers shows, podium dancers may be standard fare in the superclubs of any major city, yet Heaven ups the ante with fire breathers, elephants and more, firmly staking its position at the top of Moscow’s nightlife ladder. Bear in mind that some of the most powerful Muscovites will be in attendance and may object to being in shot of any photos you may wish to take (as our photographer found out almost to his peril).
Cuisine
To visit Russia’s capital and not indulge in the vodka and caviar so beloved by its denizens would be criminal. Upon entry to a restaurant, expect to be offered a shot of vodka as aperitif. Although seemingly excessive, the sharp sting of a vodka shot is quickly dulled by a pickled vegetable, often served alongside this fiery welcome. For those visiting on business, and in need of a clear head, do not fear, as Borst – a thick cabbage based soup – is described as the perfect cure for any vodka-related discomfort the morning after. Other national favourites yet to suffer in the face of competition from a very globally-aware restaurant offering are herring and the ubiquitous stroganoff.
Russian film
A burgeoning film scene is exciting the world, gaining increased credibility in international circles. Previously renowned largely for arthouse flicks, increasing amounts of money are being dedicated to fund directors looking to take on the might of Hollywood. Day Watch, released in the UK in October, was launched last year to tumultuous excitement and there are a host of new titles due to be launched shortly. Be sure to capture the buzz.
Shopping
With so much money in flux, Moscow has many outlets to try and tempt the wallets of those indulging in the commercial boom the city has enjoyed. A trip to Stoleshnikov Lane, just off from Tverskaya Street will reveal the extent of big name brand integration, with Hermes, Cartier, Vivienne Westwood and Louis Vuitton typical inhabitants. Yet perhaps more striking than merely the products are some of the buildings which house them. The GUM store on Red Square is a beautiful 19th century magnet for shoppers where fountains and towering ceilings put a totally different slant on mall shopping so apparent elsewhere in the world.
How to get there
One of the factors increasing Moscow’s accessibility to visitors is the emergence of new flight options. BMI offers both business and economy flights from Heathrow to Moscow Domodedovo, with 17 new Russian destinations launched in October, sure to open up the country even further.
