Neighbourhood kids play street cricket with a few twigs and rounded stone, stopping only to gape at the classic Mercedes that rolls silently past or to ask if you want to join them. Welcome to Colombo, a dash of spice on the margins of Sri Lanka’s misty green interior, a chaotic collage of colours and cultures, new and old.
The relentless traffic and hubbub of hawkers and traders can be overwhelming at first, but given a chance to charm the city can dazzle with its brilliant colonial facades which marry three generations of European investment, unique and eclectic markets and white sands looking out into the warm Indian Ocean.
There’s been a trading post at Colombo for 2,000 years, though it only became the capital of this decidedly rural nation with the advent of British rule in 1815. Today, nearly a third of Sri Lanka lives in the wide metropolitan area, making it in every way the heartbeat of the nation.
Where to stay
The Colombo Hilton is modern, clean and friendly. The Cinnamon Grand is excellent, so packed full of facilities for work, health and entertainment that you’ll wonder if it’s necessary to leave. More convenient for the airport than the city, the Wallawwa Boutique oozes style and sophistication.
Where to eat
Barefoot Garden Cafe is a trendy hangout that serves an Italian-Sri Lankan hybrid menu, popular with many of the local illuminati. Lagoon, in the Cinnamon Grand, is a fantastic seafood speciality restaurant that serves fresh catch every day.
What to see
Immerse yourself in local handicrafts and culture at Laksala. Hire a van and explore the coast to the south along the Galle Road; there’s a great old temple at Kalutara. The Elephant Orphanage at Pinnewela is also just a short trip out of the city.
