Shrouded in darkness for many years, the veils around Colombia are beginning to lift – and what a beauty she is. Bathed in equatorial sunshine, her interior is covered in rich Amazonian rainforest and dramatic Andean mountains, her Caribbean beaches are golden and pure and her cities are surprisingly refined postcolonial wonders.
She’s also in very fine health. A steadily growing economy throughout the late 20th century has been based on abundant natural resources and exports, including gold, petroleum, coal and coffee. Perhaps even more surprisingly, Colombia is the oldest democracy on the continent, with the two main political parties dating back to 1850.
Ironically, it is their long-standing political enmity which first led to the trouble; parliamentary squabbles turned to the paramilitary action and then the drug cartels stepped in. In 2002, though, after decades of failed negotiation, hard action was taken. The number of guerillas has since dropped by half and concentrated groups have been driven back into the jungle.
Now visitors are safe to explore South America’s largest concentration of megaliths and religious monuments at San Augustin, or the largest colonial fortifications at Cartegana. You can embark on jungle trek and discover the Lost City or make friends with whales just a short trip from the coast, explore the bustling markets of Bogota or free-wheel down the sides of the volcano. Then you can just let loose on the town and discover that Colombians really know how to party.
Getting there
Most international flights go to Bogota, though there are several other airports and package flights often go to Cartagena. Though Colombia borders five countries, only borders with Venezuela and Ecuador have navigable roads.
Getting around
Buses are the staple for public transport and have an extensive reach that even goes to small villages. There are no passenger train services, though there are flights between major cities.
Local information
Language: Spanish; various regional dialects
Time: UTC-5
Climate: Subtropical. Hot and wet throughout the year (cooler in highlands). Temperature: 20-30°C (January-December). Rainfall: Max 440mm (May), Min 50mm (January).
Currency: Peso (COP)
Business etiquette: Greet with a handshake. Meetings should be booked at least two weeks in advance and you should be punctual, though your host may keep you waiting. Trust is important so expect to spend time building a relationship; social activities and small talk can help to move a deal along.
Tipping: 10 percent in restaurants
Duty free: 200 cigarettes and 50 cigars and up to 500g of tobacco; Two bottles of alcoholic beverage; A reasonable quantity of perfume.
Safety: Check government advice before travelling and dangerous areas.
Laws: Photography of military buildings and personnel is illegal.
Healthcare: Vaccinations required for hepatitis A, tetanus and yellow fever. Health facilities in urban areas are good but in rural areas they are limited. Full medical insurance is vital and first aid kits should be carried if exploring the jungle.
Socket type: Type A