The Cuyahoga River that flows through Cleveland once had an unfortunate reputation of a river of fire, being so polluted that it actually burned. Yet modern Cleveland has cleaned up its act in more ways than one; drawing on both the influx of money brought by the industrial tycoons and its own earthy, working-class roots, it has recreated itself as a green and classy city that moonlights as a rock and roll hotspot for underground subcultures.
Downtown Cleveland comes in several distinct flavours, from the commercial district to the cluster of theatres around Playhouse Square. The Warehouse District in particular has been transformed; once the heart of Cleveland’s industry large scale renovation has created a number of unique office spaces and trendy, alternative restaurants. Creative class members are flocking to suburbs on both sides of the river, contributing to further redevelopment of many of its inner neighbourhoods. Many Clevelanders though are likely to object to the slow gentrification of a city whose soul has always been a little dirty and all the better for it.
Where to stay
The Marriott at Key Centre, situated on the character-filled Public Square, is extremely convenient for downtown Cleveland. The Wyndham on Playhouse Square also has a great location with a renowned reputation for excellence.
Where to eat
There are many great restaurants in the Industrial Valley, such as Momocho – excellent for Mexican – and Blue Point Grille, with an exquisite seafood menu. There’s also a great food scene near the university, where restaurants such as L’Albatros Brasserie and Bar serve fine French cuisine.
What to see
The Great Lakes Science Centre is a fascinating exhibition, as is the Cleveland Museum of Art. The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame is the real star of the show though, attracting visitors from throughout the US.
