How do you like your capitals? Well done, with a strong hint of the medieval, winding cobbled streets and Gothic domes, smothered in classical character? Or medium-rare and full of life, with modern boulevards and busy plazas, hip boutiques and a hearty social and cultural scene?
A tale of two cities, Buda on the west bank may be older, with more classical good looks and charm, but it is Pest to the east that is the pulse of Hungary’s capital, with a thoroughly cosmopolitan outlook and thriving commercial centre.
Between them both is the star attraction; the beautiful blue Danube that meanders luxuriously across its plain. Small wonder the city has inspired so much romance both past and present. There’s charm in every detail and a stroll along the river can’t fail to life your soul. If it does, the evening lights across the water from Fisherman’s Bastion could melt even the hardest of hearts.
Where to stay
The Corinthia Hotel has real character, being a converted series of town-houses rather than a more modern high-rise, and provides five-star facilities with superbly personal service. Mamaison Residence Izabella is another excellent choice next to the opera theatre and several of Budapests finest restaurants.
Where to eat
Bock Bistro is popular with the local business crowd, serving a top class fusion of French and Hungarian food. Spinoza can be harder to find but is well worth it for its well-realised Hungarian classics with hints of Dutch influence.
What to see
The neo-Gothic Parliament building is spectacular and best viewed from a river cruise, which is a must if you really want to feel the city’s romance. Castle Hill, first completed in 1265, is a spectacularly restored World Heritage Site that can easily take a day to explore in full.
