Almost half of Jordan’s population reside in this sprawling metropolis, where old and new, east and west all combine in a chaos of conflicting city cultures. In one half of the city, centuries of conservative Islamic culture buckles under the weight of thousands of Palestinian and Iraqi refugees; in the other, chic bars and trendy cafés line public boulevards that wouldn’t look out of place in many European cities. This is Jordan in microcosm; traditionalism and modernity locked in a fascinating duality.
Stroll between towering minarets and cultured boutiques, or sample the chaos of lively street markets and a pulsing downtown area. The city is nearly six millennia old, so there’s plenty of history to explore; from Roman amphitheatres to Byzantine basilica, and the Great Temple of Amman in the ancient Citadel, thought to date back to the time of Marcus Aurelius.
Where to stay
Amman has a great choice of high quality hotels. Grand Hyatt has excellent facilities and services while perhaps not being as hedonistic as the Moevenpick or other ‘resorts’. The Amman Marriott is another good choice that lives up to the Marriott chain’s international reputation.
Where to eat
There’s an abundance of good restaurants in Amman as many locals love to eat out. Al Mukhtar serves excellent Lebanese, while the traditional Arabic food at Al Quds is worth the hassle of deciphering the Arabic menu.
What to see
Head to the Citadel to be blown away by the palace and temple complexes; get out of the city to see Petra, an unofficial wonder of the ancient world and one of the most photogenic experiences in the Middle East; or just spend a day floating in the Dead Sea, where the highly saline water is famed for its therapeutic qualities.
