Imagine the Isle of Wight with its own government, a bona fide place in the EU and a health service so exemplary that scores of visitors check themselves into its hospitals and clinics for medical procedures every year. It’s an unfeasible thought.
Then relocate this utopian island and drop it into the sparkling blue Mediterranean Sea just south of Sicily, where the sun shines at least 300 days a year and the winters are short and gentle.
Finally, picture if you can scenery so stunning and diverse that it beckons many of the world’s top filmmakers to use its dramatic landmarks – and rich heritage from more than 7,000 years – as the backdrop to their work.
It seems unlikely that such a place could exist, but it does, in the shape of the Maltese archipelago, half way between Europe and Africa. Made up of Malta, Gozo and Comino, as well as the two uninhabited islands of Filfla and Cominotto, the republic and one of the newest members of the EU covers just 316 sq km.
The biggest island, supporting a population of 400,000, is Malta, which at its widest point measures 27km across. Located some 93km from Sicily and 290km north of Libya, Malta has been at the centre of many fierce battles, with occupation by the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs and more recently by France and Britain.
The British army finally took possession of the islands in 1814, and after more than a century of friendly relations – culminating in April 1942 with the presentation to the Maltese people of the George Cross for their heroism during the Second World War – relinquished power in 1964. In 1974 Malta was declared a republic, and in May 2004, it became the smallest Member State of the EU.
A rich reputation
Malta’s potted history would not be complete without including its entry to the Eurozone in January 2008, when the population of Malta gave up their Maltese lira for the euro. Some say that this pivotal moment has cost Malta dear.
Malta relies heavily on its tourist industry and critics bemoan the euro for hiking up the cost of living in a country which used to enjoy lower rates than other destinations in Europe. But a recent survey by the Post Office appears to have put paid to this by naming Malta as one of the best value resorts, losing out only to Spain and Portugal.
The country also gained another boost this year when it was voted the third best diving destination in the world, preceded only by Egypt and the Maldives. The waters around Malta and Gozo in particular offer exceptional diving conditions in the plentiful reefs and caves which hug the coastline. There are also a large number of shipwrecks in the outlying waters, throwbacks from the country’s tempestuous maritime history.
Culturally, the country is without doubt a winner. The capital Valletta – the Fortress City – is situated on the east coast of Malta, and is named after its founder, the Grand Master of the Order of St John, Jean Parisot de La Valette. Valette overthrew the Turks in the Great Siege of Malta in 1565 and a year later commissioned the creation of the new city of Valletta. The story goes that he lay the first stone with his bare hands but died in 1568, before the fortress, adorned with forts, bastions and a magnificent cathedral, was completed some 13 years later.
When Disraeli visited the city – which is now a Unesco World Heritage site – he said, “Vallette equals in its noble architecture, if it does not excel, any capital in Europe.”
Stylish sights
Valletta, which towers above the two ports of Marsamxett and Grand Harbour, is no less striking to the eye today. Built on the top of Mount Sceberra, with sea on three sides, the fortress offers breath-taking views of the Mediterranean below. Perhaps the best site to marvel at the view is the Upper Barrakka Gardens, which were created in 1661 as a private garden for the Italian Knights.
However, turning away from the ocean and in towards the limestone buildings can be just as rewarding. A highlight is the Co-Cathedral of St John, the spiritual home for the Knights of St John where a masterpiece by Italian artist Caravaggio can be found. Caravaggio fled to Malta to avoid the death penalty after committing a murder in Rome. His Beheading of St John the Baptist was created in 1608 for the chapel of the Co-Cathedral of St John, and at 361cm by 520cm is the largest work he ever painted. It depicts the moment in Biblical history where St John is beheaded by King Herod.
Another vital destination is the Grand Master’s Palace, which is now and has always been the seat of government in Malta, first for the knights, then the French and British. Today it houses the President’s office, and can be visited when parliament is not in session. The interior of the palace is adorned with works of art, and the armoury in the basement displays one of the largest collections in the world.
Although seated in Baroque history, Valletta is by no means dated. The Valletta waterfront, built in the 18th century, has recently undergone a massive renovation project and is now fully equipped with bars, designer shops and exclusive restaurants to meet the demands of Malta’s lucrative cruise liner business. It also serves as a venue for some of Malta’s most popular events such as the fireworks festival, held every May, and the summer jazz festival.
Another recent addition to Valletta is the shrine to British actor Oliver Reed, who died in a bar in the town in 1999. Known locally as ‘Ollie’s Last Pub,’ it is adorned with newspaper cuttings, film posters and other memorabilia of the actor, who died while having a drink – or 20 – with friends in the popular watering hole. Reed, who had been staying in Malta to film the blockbuster Gladiator, is said to have consumed eight lagers, 12 double rums and half a bottle of whisky before collapsing: this alleged last round is displayed on the wall, near the bar stool from which he fell.
Ancient attractions
It would be more than easy to settle back and enjoy the riches of Malta without even leaving Valletta, with its wide range of accommodation from hotels fit for a queen, through to elegant boutique hotels and more modest hostels. Indeed, the country’s tiny capital city was the chosen destination of the Queen and Prince Philip for their 60th wedding anniversary. It wasn’t their first visit: the couple lived there from 1949 to 1951 while Prince Philip was stationed there as a Royal Naval officer.
However, a visit to Malta wouldn’t be complete without a trip around the island. The old city of Mdina, west of Valletta, is certainly worth a look, enjoying a history that traces back more than 4,000 years. According to ancient beliefs, the Apostle St Paul lived here in 60 AD after being shipwrecked on the island. Illuminated solely by lamps at night and referred to as the ‘silent city,’ Mdina is one of Europe’s best preserved examples of an ancient walled city.
In the south of the island are the ancient temples of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra, which were given the coveted title of Unesco World Heritage Site in 1980. Hagar Qim was discovered under rubble in 1839; treasures unearthed at the site include a decorated pillar altar and two table-altars. Some 500m away is the Mnajdra Temple complex, which stands isolated on a cliff top. The temples are among the most ancient religious sites on earth, and are thought to date from around 3,400 BC.
Once you have had your fill of ancient architecture, head north to Malta’s largest sandy beach of Mellieha, or into the towns of Sliema and St Julian, for some bar action in resorts which offer sophisticated nightlife and some first-class accommodation.
Modern medicine
Another unmissable trip is the 25 minute ferry-ride to neighbouring Gozo, where life is a little slower. Indeed, there is only one set of traffic lights on the whole 67sq km island, implying the pace of life – and motoring in particular – is pretty gentle.
Once you have arrived on the island, head to Dwejra, on the north-west coast, where the impressive Azure Window – an arch created by thousands of years of crashing waves – stands 20 metres high off the shoreline.
While it might be fair to say that Malta used to attract a fairly aged tourist, featuring regularly in pensioners’ travel brochures, it has gone to great lengths to provide facilities which will appeal to a younger travelling set. There are now 13 five star hotels on Malta and two on Gozo – some of which offer first class spas.
The country has also developed a booming medical tourism industry, even hosting its own medical tourism summit this July. Malta prides itself on its medics, with many surgeons gaining postgraduate qualifications in the UK, and with a large number being members of the UK General Medical Council. It also prides itself on its bargain prices – £8000 for a hip replacement and £3790 for a face-lift – with the sunshine thrown in for free.
