If you’re visiting Germany on a business trip, you can expect all the standard clichés about German efficiency to ring true. Public transport is rapid and timely, city halls imposing and well run, food is fresh and wholesome, and beer served in chilled glasses which have been polished to a high shine.
It’s also a country well set up for business, with the financial capital of Frankfurt boasting the second largest airport in Europe and every city having sterling capacity for travelling corporates.
But whilst you may find yourself comfortably ensconced in a well-run business hotel in Germany, there are other stereotypes of the nation which hold less true. Historically this is a country which has only been united relatively recently, and a few hundred years ago existed as separate nations and republics. The effect of this divided past has filtered into the country as a whole, and while a certain combined identity might have been established overseas, within Germany the different regions often feel as distinct from one another in their customs as if they were unique states.
So although a love for well brewed beer spans the nation, the light wheat beer of Cologne is markedly different from the dark Altbier of Düsseldorf.
Whilst an enviable capacity for contemporary living might show itself in a skyscraper in Frankfurt and a jazz bar in Berlin. Whichever area of the country you find yourself you may well also be surprised by the warm welcome and the open mindedness with which most Germans greet strangers.
Particularly if you happen to find yourself in one of the country’s most affable meeting spots, the traditional beer hall.
Munich
When it comes to fulfilling expectations of a German city, Munich does the job whole-heartedly. It is located in the heart of Bavaria, which tends to showcase every national cliché going. It is this part of the country from whence oompah bands and forest-green leiderhossen hail. Whilst many a native from a different region will blame outlandish behaviours or customs associated with their people soley on the Bavarian heritage. This means that Munich is the expected showcase of baroque architecture, traditional beer halls, lively local music and that most famous of German exports, Oktoberfest.
If you’re in the city with some time on your hands to wander around, there’s plenty to see on the pleasant cobbled streets, and many of the iconic city buildings are found in a compact central area spanning out from Marienplatz.
This main square alone is home to the imposing city hall, and the much loved glockenspiel – a many layered cuckoo clock, whose wooden figures mark the midday hours of 12pm and 11am with a complex dance to the chimes of a clockwork band.
If musical puppetry displays aren’t your thing, then Munich’s other trump card is its several grand palaces, complemented by the Residentz Museum which displays untold quantities of palatial artwork and treasures. The main Residenzt palace is a medley of over 500 years of architectural accomplishment, whilst the smaller Schloss Nymphenburg took up the royal slack as a summer residence and is located a short tram’s ride outside the city centre.
Those with time to savour a bite to eat in Munich should take advantage of the many restaurants serving traditional Bavarian food – Fraunhofer on Fraunhoferstrasse is always a good bet for a rowdy local choice. The obligatory beer hall experience can be enjoyed throughout the city, but a particularly good cluster of watering holes can be found slightly south of the centre in the Glockenbach-Viertel district and around.
Berlin
While Germany’s major cities are for the most part orderly places, Berlin breaks the mould with a bohemian style of its own. In fact it’s becoming well known as a spot for an alternative nightlife, arts and music scene like nothing else in the country. This is mostly due to the subversive history of its eastern quarter, which although reunited for nearly two decades, still retains some if its edgier characteristics.
Berlin has several impressive architectural accolades, including the Brandenburg Gate and the nearby glass-walled Reichstag or Parliament. But if you want to see attractive monuments of this kind, there are many other German cities who can accommodate.
Where Berlin really shines is in its more subversive and contentious accomplishments. More symbolic of the city than the grand parliament is the enormous bombed out remains of the city cathedral Gedächniskirche, which has been left unrestored as a memorial to World War II. The dramatic unroofed structure towers over the central shopping district and is a fitting tribute to Berlin’s heritage of a city which was left incomplete for so many years.
More controversial but nonetheless dramatic is the city’s Holocaust Memorial which teams a museum experience with an artistic rendering of many hundreds of victim’s faces at ground level, to be walked over by visitors. In contrast the Wall Victims Memorial opposite the city parliament is a more conservative tribute to the last 191 people who were killed attempting to cross from east to west during Berlin’s time as a divided city. Those interested in this particular history will be overwhelmed with possibilities to find out more. The wall itself can still be traced through the centre, while Check Point Charlie is now a tourist attraction and numerous tours and guides are available on the subject.
Moving to a more modern experience, the best of Berlin can also be found in their innovative bars and clubs. These include Brokers Bier Borse, where drinkers can match their choice to the on-site beer ‘stockmarket’ price. The more a brand sells the more its stock (and hence price) increases, while regular stock market crashes ensure happy hours throughout the night.
Berliners love to eat out too, and while the city has numerous good restaurants, business types should try out social concept eatery Sankt Oberholtz – an establishment destined to house the city’s ‘office-less creatures’ who are accommodated with WiFi and good quality food.
Frankfurt
Although Munch is ostensibly the capital of Germany, it is Frankfurt where the real economy thrives. As the financial powerhouse for the entire nation Frankfurt is unashamedly a business destination, with a glass and steel skyline, and parts of the centre are more reminiscent of New York than a European city. The trading centre houses Europe’s largest stock exchange, together with the national bank, and the entire financial district teams with business people from all over the world.
That’s not to say that Frankfurt has lost touch entirely with its German past. Although almost all of the centre and infrastructure was destroyed by World War II, the citizens almost unanimously elected to restore rather than destroy the much-loved opera house, and this along with the historic town centre were spared the relentless march of progress.
For the most part, however, this is a city which means business and you’ll see evidence of it in every bar, café and restaurant. Whilst there are some undoubted lovely tourist sights, including the magnificent cathedral and the Romerberg or old square, which reveal how lovely the city must have been pre-war. The Museum Embankment is also a justly celebrated area for its density of well kept and interesting museums, documenting everything from Botticelli masterpieces to contemporary film legends.
Aside from the numerous attractive hotel bars and eateries, some of the best places for dining in Frankfurt tend to be found in traditional tavern style places such as Adolf Wagner on Schweizer Strasse.
Hamburg
If you end up in Hamburg on business there is plenty to keep you entertained once the working day is done. This lively portside city has a history of mixing many nationalities, leading to an open-minded and friendly outlook amongst its people. This, combined with a healthy student population means the streets are always abuzz with some new theatrical, cultural event, or simply a new bar opening to draw the crowds.
Those who expect Hamburg to be an industrial sort of place will also be pleasantly surprised. This is a canal city which built its money on water-haulage, and like many others of its type, experienced a sharp downturn in prospects only to rise again, with brighter lights and trendier venues. Hamburg’s waterside area has received substantial investment, and warehouses which were once emptying of business have now been re-let to boutique hotels and a hip new bar and restaurant scene. Urban regeneration notwithstanding, the canal areas make for pleasant strolling about the city, and Hamburg boasts more ornate bridges and waterways than Venice.
The city is also renowned for its love of football, and the beautiful game is Hamburg’s number one spectator sport. Fans are well catered to, with a spectacular 55,000 seater arena housed just outside the city centre.
Düsseldorf
If Munich is Germany’s cultural heart, and Berlin her political soul, then Düsseldorf is home to the nation’s fashion and art interests. The city has an almost accidental designer heritage by privilege of being the chosen location for Germany’s first fashion exposition back in the fifties.
Following the unprecedented success, Düsseldorf became the place for big fashion names to set up shop, with Karl Lagerfeld, JOOP!, and Escada all attributing great retail successes to this German conurbation. The centre is seen as the place to go shopping in Germany, with the famous Konigsallee Street housing the best of the city’s fashion names.
All this high fashion has had something of an effect on the psyche of the people, and Düsseldorf boasts the highest standard of living in Germany.
Part and parcel of this is its multifarious supply of chic cafes, boutique shops, glamorous bars and elegant restaurants.
But the well dressed citizens also seem to have had an effect on the city culture as a whole. Unlike other German municipalities with their heavy baroque buildings and imposing town halls, Düsseldorf has done something decidedly feminine with the architecture, and the cityscape flaunts curvy contemporary buildings of glass and steel to equal numbers of the traditional brick townhouses found everywhere else.
The aim to enjoy the finer things in life has also impacted on the eating and drinking scene. Certainly, you’re more likely to find locals heading to a jazz evening or a wine bar than a rowdy beer hall. But that doesn’t mean they don’t share the nation’s enthusiasm for beer. In fact the city’s signature altbier or dark beer is a flavoursome change to the popular light wheat beers found in the nearby city of Cologne.
To enjoy Düsseldorf nightlife at its best, head to Altstadt – routinely described by guides everywhere as ‘the world’s longest bar’ due to the sheer pavement space allocation to watering holes. Across the river, Im Alten Bierhaus offer traditional German food to line your stomach in preparation.
Berliners love to eat out too, and while the city has numerous good restaurants, business types should try out social concept eatery Sankt Oberholtz – an establishment destined to house the city’s ‘office-less creatures’ who are accommodated with WiFi and good quality food.
Frankfurt
Although Munch is ostensibly the capital of Germany, it is Frankfurt where the real economy thrives. As the financial powerhouse for the entire nation Frankfurt is unashamedly a business destination, with a glass and steel skyline, and parts of the centre are more reminiscent of New York than a European city. The trading centre houses Europe’s largest stock exchange, together with the national bank, and the entire financial district teams with business people from all over the world.
That’s not to say that Frankfurt has lost touch entirely with its German past. Although almost all of the centre and infrastructure was destroyed by World War II, the citizens almost unanimously elected to restore rather than destroy the much-loved opera house, and this along with the historic town centre were spared the relentless march of progress.
For the most part, however, this is a city which means business and you’ll see evidence of it in every bar, café and restaurant. Whilst there are some undoubted lovely tourist sights, including the magnificent cathedral and the Romerberg or old square, which reveal how lovely the city must have been pre-war. The Museum Embankment is also a justly celebrated area for its density of well kept and interesting museums, documenting everything from Botticelli masterpieces to contemporary film legends.
Aside from the numerous attractive hotel bars and eateries, some of the best places for dining in Frankfurt tend to be found in traditional tavern style places such as Adolf Wagner on Schweizer Strasse.
Hamburg
If you end up in Hamburg on business there is plenty to keep you entertained once the working day is done. This lively portside city has a history of mixing many nationalities, leading to an open-minded and friendly outlook amongst its people. This, combined with a healthy student population means the streets are always abuzz with some new theatrical, cultural event, or simply a new bar opening to draw the crowds.
Those who expect Hamburg to be an industrial sort of place will also be pleasantly surprised. This is a canal city which built its money on water-haulage, and like many others of its type, experienced a sharp downturn in prospects only to rise again, with brighter lights and trendier venues. Hamburg’s waterside area has received substantial investment, and warehouses which were once emptying of business have now been re-let to boutique hotels and a hip new bar and restaurant scene. Urban regeneration notwithstanding, the canal areas make for pleasant strolling about the city, and Hamburg boasts more ornate bridges and waterways than Venice.
The city is also renowned for its love of football, and the beautiful game is Hamburg’s number one spectator sport. Fans are well catered to, with a spectacular 55,000 seater arena housed just outside the city centre.
Düsseldorf
If Munich is Germany’s cultural heart, and Berlin her political soul, then Düsseldorf is home to the nation’s fashion and art interests. The city has an almost accidental designer heritage by privilege of being the chosen location for Germany’s first fashion exposition back in the fifties.
Following the unprecedented success, Düsseldorf became the place for big fashion names to set up shop, with Karl Lagerfeld, JOOP!, and Escada all attributing great retail successes to this German conurbation. The centre is seen as the place to go shopping in Germany, with the famous Konigsallee Street housing the best of the city’s fashion names.
All this high fashion has had something of an effect on the psyche of the people, and Düsseldorf boasts the highest standard of living in Germany.
Part and parcel of this is its multifarious supply of chic cafes, boutique shops, glamorous bars and elegant restaurants.
But the well dressed citizens also seem to have had an effect on the city culture as a whole. Unlike other German municipalities with their heavy baroque buildings and imposing town halls, Düsseldorf has done something decidedly feminine with the architecture, and the cityscape flaunts curvy contemporary buildings of glass and steel to equal numbers of the traditional brick townhouses found everywhere else.
The aim to enjoy the finer things in life has also impacted on the eating and drinking scene. Certainly, you’re more likely to find locals heading to a jazz evening or a wine bar than a rowdy beer hall. But that doesn’t mean they don’t share the nation’s enthusiasm for beer. In fact the city’s signature altbier or dark beer is a flavoursome change to the popular light wheat beers found in the nearby city of Cologne.
To enjoy Düsseldorf nightlife at its best, head to Altstadt – routinely described by guides everywhere as ‘the world’s longest bar’ due to the sheer pavement space allocation to watering holes. Across the river, Im Alten Bierhaus offer traditional German food to line your stomach in preparation.
Christmas commerce in Germany
While Germany might be a sensible and efficient nation, all austerity is neatly dispensed with for the festive period. The country is well-loved for its all out approach to festivities which sees almost every town square festooned with Christmas wooden huts selling everything from reindeer woollens to giant lollipops. In contrast to most seasonal markets the arrangements manage to be both appropriately festive and surprisingly tasteful, as towns carefully vet stallholders for the quality of their stock.
Interspersed with all the gift paraphernalia is at least one gluehwein stall selling hot wine by the refillable cup for rosy-cheeked shoppers to warm their cockles. The good cheer carries on after the gift stalls pack up their wares, as the gluehwein is ladled out long into the cold evenings.
While most towns will have at least a few stalls, serious shoppers can conduct their own tour of the best markets by car or public transport. A good place to start is Maastricht to explore the Valkenburg Markets, which are situated in a network of underground caves. Next stop might be the historic German town of Aachen, which has some beautiful festive displays, alongside yet more shopping opportunities.
From Aachen it’s only a short drive to Cologne, which has no less than seven dedicated Christmas markets. And if you want to immerse yourself in traditional festivities, Alter Markt among the old town offers a collection of picturesque gabled houses. There is also an old-style children’s roundabout, puppet show, and Santa’s grotto.
