We know instinctively that good wine should be about the convergence of the place that it comes from, and the person who lovingly tended the vines – but there is additionally a great drama behind many bottles, that may combine history, politics and geography in their creation, and that can add another layer of pleasure to sharing and drinking it.
In the spirit of this, I have selected here some bottles with fascinating stories behind them, whether of hardship, innovation or history. They make for a great way to remind ourselves that wine can be the starting point of an evening in a way that few other drinks allow, which is why it is often accorded a cultural aspect that isn’t seen with spirits or beers. And taking one of these along to a dinner party sure beats turning up with an anonymous brand…
Kim Crawford SP Tietjen Gisborne Chardonnay, Gisbourne 2007 (approx £10)
You might remember during the Millennium celebrations that all the TV channels went to Gisborne first. This city on the New Zealand coast is the most easterly in the world (longitude 178E and latitude 38.40S) meaning that vines from Gisborne are the first to see the sun each morning. Kim Crawford Wines is today part of Constellation, which may have lessened some of its romance, but the purchase came about due to the consistent quality of the wines produced, and this chardonnay in particular is an outstanding bottle. Round and oaky without being in any way cloying, this reminds us that southern hemisphere chardonnays can offer levels of succulent fruit that is hard to equal elsewhere.
Veles Coloniste Pinot Noir 2004, Ukraine (approx £10)
Gorbachev ripped up the vines in this area in the 1980s, reportedly in an attempt to stop alcoholism in Russia. Today, wine has returned, but the odds are still stacked against the few brave souls who are attempting to make a living from its production. For a start, winemakers are allowed to own vines, but not the land on which their vines grow, and all wine is subject to punitive taxes. Despite all of this, there is good wine being made here (the location of the village of Krynychne is on exactly the same parallel as Bordeaux, and the landscape is often described as a ‘little Medoc’ due to the rivers, lakes and gentle slopes). This is the only privately owned vineyard in the region (the rest of the vines are farmed by the local cooperative), and winemakers Ivan and Svetlanta are aided by Bordeaux consultant Oliver Dauga. On the strength of this pinot noir, there is still room for improvement, but the delicacy and purity of the plum fruits bodes well for the future.
Chateau d’Esclans Garrus 2007, Cotes de Provence (approx £70)
Since buying this Provence property in 2005, owner Sacha Lichine has been working on creating a small production, boutique rosé from the 100 percent free run juice of 80 year old Grenache vines – and to my mind the second vintage of the self-proclaimed ‘world’s most expensive rosé’ is proving even more successful than the first. Winemaker is ex-Chateau Mouton Rothschild consultant Patrick Leon, and the wine is treated to the same meticulous attention to detail of a premium Burgundy or Bordeaux. Earlier this year, the top cuvée Garrus (Chateau d’Esclans produces four in the range) was selected by the Wine Spectator as one of the 200 best wines in the world, and was the only rosé wine selected. It has real structure and body, with great length, but remains delicate and elegant as a good Provence rosé should be.
M’Hudi Wines Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (approx £8)
Apartheid officially ended in 1994, fourteen years ago, and it seems incredible that even today, there are very few black owned wineries in South Africa. This is one of them, family run by Malmsey and Diale Rangaka. Thecouple had never tasted a drop of wine in their lives before buying M’hudi in 2003, but it now is a truly family affair, with son Tseliso the winemaker, daughter Lebogang the marketer and youngest son Senyane the designer in charge of all branding. The land is in Stellenbosch, 104 acres overlooking the Simonsberg mountains, and grows a variety of grapes, the most successful of which is probably the sauvignon blanc, that has won various competitions at home and internationally. The grapes come from both their own vines and some bought in from the cool-climate Elgin region, and manage to combine classic Sauvignon Blanc grapefruit and lemon aromas. They also do a very good chenin blanc that is worth seeking out.
Chateau Musar 2001, Lebanon (approx £18)
Located in Ghazir, just north of Beirut, Chateau Musar is one of the Lebanon’s leading estates, living proof that political instability need not be an insurmountable problem. Since civil war started in 1970s, the road to this winery in the Bekaa Valley has frequently been a battleground – literally in 1983 when fighting took place around the vines, and owner Serge Hochar had to be smuggled in by small boat to make the wine during harvest. Fighting has occurred off and on since then, with 1989 seeing both the Hochar family home and the Chateau Musar winery suffering direct hits from shelling, and the wine cellars being used for shelter. However, wine production has rarely ceased, and the international reputation continues to grow. This 2001 wine has a highly distinctive taste – slightly sharp flavours of black olives mixed with the rich red fruits – that make it stand out despite it being a mix of well known grapes such as cabernet sauvignon, cinsault, carignan, grenache and mourvedre.
Monsoon Valley Rosé 2007, Thailand (approx £8)
As the name of this wine would suggest, Thailand on the face of it doesn’t seem to be ideal for growing grapes, what with all the monsoons, tropical storms and intense heat. But increasingly there are some interesting wines coming out of the country, and more money being poured into the industry. The Siam Winery is one of the biggest, founded by Khun Chalerm Yoovidhya in 1982. The Moonsoon Valley range of wines was launched internationally in 2003, using a combination of indigenous grapes (Malaga blanc and pokdum) and international varieties such as the black muscat used here in this rosé. You can expect a wine that tastes slightly lighter than many American or Australian rosés, aimed not surprisingly at mixing with Thai curries or spicy barbeque food. It is refreshing and crisp-bodied, if lacking distinction.
