Preconceptions are rife as many continue to perceive the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea, or North Korea as it is commonly known to the West, a draconian social phenomenon which is detrimental to a free society. As this secluded country is persisting to make headlines for all the wrong reasons we find a moment to look beyond the noise and give a unique insight into its vast, hidden beauties just waiting to be explored.
Myths of origin
One of North Korea’s most fascinating foundation myths is the legend of Tan-gun who is said to be the direct ancestor of its people and according to belief established the Korean state in 2333 B.C. Legend has it that Hwan-in, the God of everything and ruler of the heavens, sent his son Hwan-ung and three thousand assistants to earth with the mission to ensure the happiness of humans by ruling over them.
When Hwan-ung descended to Mount T’aebaek, today the border between Manchuria and North Korea, he decided to call the area Shinshi, the City of God. Alongside his helpers, Master of Rain, Master of Clouds and Earl of Wind, he immediately went to work implementing laws and codes of ethics in addition to teaching humans about good and evil, cultivation, arts and medicine.
A bear and a tiger which were observing the good deeds of Hwan-ung prayed to be allowed to take the human form too. Hwan-ung gave them a bunch of sacred herbs and 20 garlic cloves to feed on, and asked them to stay in a cave for 100 days and avoid the sunlight. The tiger soon gave up and left the cave but the bear remained strong and after 21 days was eventually transformed into a beautiful woman.
Hwan-ung, stirred by her beauty and strength, took her for his wife and soon she gave birth to a beautiful son named Tan-gun, who developed into a powerful, judicious leader. Tan-gun moved to Pyongyang in 2333 B.C., now the capital of North Korea, and established the Land of the Morning Calm, or Choson Kingdom. At last, aged nearly two millennia at the tender age of 1908, he returned to Mount T’aebaek where he turned into a mountain god.
Logistics of visiting North Korea
Charming as this legend may be, the question remains, how does a mere mortal descend onto North Korea today? Due to the country’s continuing political situation it would be virtually impossible to plainly book a flight with the click of a few buttons, pack some luggage and take a stroll around Pyongyang city centre to shoot a few photos of the bronze coloured statue of Kim Il-Sung.
It should be remembered that foreigners are not permitted to travel without a guide. Additionally, showing respect for the country’s traditions and culture is paramount as foreigners are under close scrutiny in North Korea. North Koreans themselves cannot travel freely in their own county without prior government consent. Laptops are not allowed into the country and mobile phones will be confiscated at the airport until the visitor’s return flight. It is because of these restriction that the only accepted travel method for foreigners within North Korea is through the use of an experienced travel agency which specialises in the region and is conscious of restrictions, etiquette and has developed good insider connections.
There are several good providers who offer this type of service for the around 1,300 tourists visiting North Korea yearly. One of the most established ones however, due to its longevity is Koryo Tours, an agency which started running North Korean tours in 1993. The agency, which takes over 50 percent of all westerners travelling into North Korea, became known a few years ago for its continued efforts in encouraging cultural projects and increased engagement between North Koreans and westerners. Projects have included filming movies with a North Korean crew and organising football games between western and North Korean teams. It is principally thanks to its founder Nick Bonner, a filmmaker, cartoonist and landscape artist, that the agency has been able to develope a close relationship with North Koreans and the state-run Korea International Travel Company. Bonner, who is continually consulted for his expertise on the country by Lonely Planet and Rough Guides, is a great believer in engagement between westerners and North Koreans.
Koryo Tours runs group and individual tours between February and November to coincide with the dates of key festivals and commemorative dates, and tours can be as short as three days and up to eight days. Those visiting must stay in selected tourist hotels which are of different standards such as luxury, first class, second and third class and will usually be arranged by the tour operator.
Why North Korea is worth a visit
If given the chance to become a character in George Orwell’s Nineteen Eighty-Four novel for just a few days and closely experience the totalitarian society of Oceania, would you really be able to resist such temptation? North Korea is not quite Oceania but it is a similar concept, and it is this uniqueness that makes it an astonishing tourist destination.
North Korea’s inimitability is impossible to overlook and affects all facets of everyday life. The Traffic police in Pyongyang for instance comprises of only strikingly beautiful young women who are dressed in immaculate uniforms. In a different world it would not be exaggerated to note they could have been covers of fashion magazines, yet in Pyongyang they stand on platforms controlling the almost non-existent traffic. Their exquisiteness has become such a cultural phenomenon there are even websites dedicated to their beauty.
The world’s most astonishing Olympic opening ceremony that never happened and the country’s key attraction are the world famous Arirang performances or mass games, which are often attended by Kim Jong Il himself. The mass games are according to the Guinness book of records the largest choreographed display of synchronised acrobatics and dance, typically held during state occasions and national holidays, and comprise of up to 100,000 gymnasts and dancers performing stories of the Korean War and the founding of their country. Magnificent metamorphosing human murals are created in the spectator stands with various coloured flip-cards that are turned over in a specific order to create a range of images. This charming myth eternalised the capital Pyongyang, which remains to this day its most magnificent attraction, and the centre of politics, culture and tourism.
The capital, which is built on the banks of the Taedong River, has a wealth of memorials and sights within its city centre none of which should go unseen with the selection of a good tour guide. During the tour it will be difficult to ignore North Korea’s obsession with things tall and big as if trying to break all world records by merely making things taller and bigger. Among these sights is the Arch of Triumph, erected in 1982 to celebrate the Korean resistance to Japanese occupation from 1925 to 1945, which is simply a larger version of the one in Paris. The Mansudae Grand Monument, a statue of former president Kim Il-Sung stands 70 feet high in the city centre and is in the vicinity of a museum dedicated to his life. This is said to be one of the holiest parts of the city and a visit to the statue, they placing of flowers in front of it and a bow of respect are all obligatory in accordance with local tradition. Another sight popular with visitors is the Arch of Reunification, which features two Korean women in traditional garments reaching out to one another while holding up a unified map of Korea. For those sports fans who thought Camp Nou in Barcelona or the Michigan Stadium in the US are awe-inspiring to tour wait until you lay eyes on the Rungrado May Day Stadium, which seats well over 150,000 spectators and is considered to be the largest stadium in the world.
Beyond the capital there are numerous appealing towns worth a stopover such as Kuwolsan, famous for its glorious temples, shrines as well as its breathtaking hot springs and waterfalls. Another city on the list should be Kaesong, once the capital of the Koryo dynasty, which houses the Songgyungwan Neo-Confucian College that dates back to the year 992. A Zelkova bonsai tree almost a millennium old and several Ginko trees over five centuries old are within the college. The college also houses the Koryo Museum which is packed with historical objects including pottery and Buddhist items.
There is no denying that this trip will provide an insight into North Korea and its people to everybody willing to step out of their comfort zone. Visitors will surely be taken to the most amazing places the country has to offer and shown all the areas that promote its magnificence. This is not a standard vacation with normal rules however as you realise whilst forced to leave your mobile phone when first coming into the country. This is the trip of a lifetime.
