Take the delicate question of dressing for the office party. The usual custom is turn up in your regular suit following an early drink straight from the office with top buttons open, tie askew, further buttons opening as the evening progresses, jacket discarded altogether and end with your tie round the head. Even the office party has politics. It is always worth impressing your boss, however relaxed the occasion – even if he’s the one who looks like the missing cast member of ‘The History Boys’ by nine o’clock. Think of the party as corporate entertaining and do not underestimate the impression you present to both those above and below you. Even at the most informal gatherings. Maintain the professional image that you keep in the office, but soften the overall look by changing your ordinary shirt for a high collared white shirt worn without a tie. If the event is more informal, you might dispose of your suit jacket and tie, in favour of a cashmere v-neck jumper, worn over your existing shirt.
Where black tie is required, even at Christmas, the rules can be bent, but not broken. A good dinner jacket is something everyone should own, even if you only wear it once a year. You can spot a hired suit straightaway, the fit is rarely right. Why cut corners when the image stakes are so high? Traditional dinner jackets are made from Barathea, which is a 100% wool fabric, however more contemporary fabrics such as mohair and silk/wool mixes are also good options. Style wise, as the phrase goes ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’. There are two main styles; Single-Breasted and Double-Breasted. The Single breasted variety come in three main types: peak, shawl and normal notch lapel.
Common similarities between the two styles are; covered buttons using the facing fabric (the fabric in which the collar is made from, either satin or silk)and the trousers should have a stripe of facing fabric down either side.
Alternatively, if you want to be different try a smoking jacket or speak to your tailor to create a unique piece which still embodies the spirit of black tie.
Tony’s top five rules:
– Never wear clip-on bow ties, even if you think you can’t tie a real one…try.
– Cummerbunds are not always essential. I have never found the need to wear one.
– Don’t wear silly cuff link/bow tie sets as they detract from the overall look (and make you look like your mother dressed you)
– Always wear a dress shirt. Never wear wing-tip collars with black tie.
– Make sure your shoes are highly polished.
