There are some islands that are all soft blues and yellows – beach meets sea meets sky meets tequila sunrise. Madeira is drawn from an entirely different palette; something darker, more exotic, more exciting. Vibrant greens (there is plenty of rainfall over winter, so gardens are lush), black volcanic beaches around a broodingly craggy shore line, slashes of yellows and pinks from the hibiscus and jacaranda flowers, and the abundant mangos and papayas that greet you every morning.
Half the distance (300 miles) from Morocco as it is from mainland Portugal, its colours are washed by the reds and pinks of northern Africa as much as by the more European influences of its mother country. All this makes it almost surprising that the island’s reputation is as a haven for retired army majors and their doughty WI wives. Maybe it’s the lack of sandy beaches, or the absence of any low cost carriers, but Madeira has the reputation of being a playground for the rich and blue-rinsed – not helped perhaps by the fact that Winston Churchill used to summer here to paint the local fishing boats, or by the president having gone on record to declare he’s against any overly enthusiastic nightlife.
But the moment I landed at the newly-renovated airport, I started to reassess – and if you’re still not convinced that Madeira is worth exploring, wait til you’ve taken the ‘Cota 200’ road 15 miles south, and you arrive at the turn off for Funchal.
Nothing quite prepares you for your first view of the capital city, Funchal, and if you have the option of arriving by boat, I strongly recommend that you take it (preferably with someone that you are very keen to impress, like the client of your highest revenue-earning account, or that woman from accounts who never gives you a second glance.)
It has an amphitheatre layout that starts at the harbour and rises almost 1,200 gentle metres upwards, providing natural shelter from the elements. You can almost hear the first settlers (who apparently included someone called Zarco the One Eyed) looking at each other and saying, ‘well this looks alright.’ First founded by Portuguese Joao Goncalves Zarco in 1421, today over 130,000 people have joined his descendents, but despite it being a modern city with sometimes epic traffic jams, it’s full of trees, easy to walk around and frankly rather classy.
In the 16th century, Fuchal was an important stopping point between the Indies and the New World, and as a result was very wealthy. Later came Madeira wines and sugar, both prized commodities – and the result of all this was an influx of wealth, reflected today in some well preserved examples of Portuguese 15th century architecture, like the Sé cathedral. But, like much of mainland Portugal, times got a bit harder during the 20th century, especially the latter half of it, and there were a few bleak economic years until the EU stepped in, with a full programme of funding that has seen an influx of road and tunnel building, the new airport and social projects in some of the more remote areas.
To do their bit, the government has made it easy to do business, and attracted plenty of international firms in the process. There is an International Business Centre on Madeira which until 2001 offered offshore status and very low taxes to manufacturing, service and financial companies. In late 2002, the EU approved an extension of the scheme, but excluded new financial services companies. VAT applies on the island, although at a lower than normal rate, and Portugal has nearly 40 double tax treaties that can be used alongside the International Business Centre to obtain a very low tax burden for many types of trading and commercial activity.
But the best thing about doing business here is the setting, and the ease with which you can enjoy your time off. The best way to explore Funchal is by foot – preferably starting down by the harbour as early as possible in the morning, watching the small fishing boats wrestle with hundred-foot yachts for the prime positions along the harbour (okay, so the yachts usually win). Besides the beautiful Sé cathedral (with some Moorish influences in its carved and inlaid ceiling, no doubt from the traders that passed through here), there are a number of interesting museums and galleries – and countless cobbled streets to get lost among.
The Cidade do Açúcar museum (Praça do Colombo 5, 291 236 910, closed Sat and Sun) celebrates the sugar trade, while Madeiran wine gets its official nod at the Madeira Wine Institute museum (78 Rua 5 de Outrubo, 291 224 600, closed Sat and Sun). Also worth a visit is the Blandy Wine Lodge (28 Avenida Arriaga, 291 740 110, closed Sun) where you can do tours and tastings in the 17th century lodge, part of an old Franciscan monastery. The main square, Praça do Município, is framed by the 18th-century town hall (Câmara Municipal) and the Museu de Arte Sacra (Rua do Bispo 21, 291 228 900, closed Mon), with its collection of Flemish Renaissance paintings. And for retail therapy, head to Avenida Arriaga, the main shopping drag.
Once your feet are tired, it’s worth taking the cable car up to the top of the slopes. This is where Monte village is, the site of most of the luxury hotels, and a number of beautiful gardens that are open to the public. If you’re feeling particularly brave, look out for the men in straw boater hats – they’re in charge of the toboggan ride that takes you back down to the centre, and will happily push you down the steep roads. Don’t expect any Cool Runnings type sleek sledges though; you’ll be sitting in an oversized wicker basket that looks like a piece of 1970s rattan furniture stuck onto runners (Info on 291 783 919).
The new-look Madeira has got behind extreme sports in a big way, and there are some great trips further round the coast and inland – from mountain biking and kayaking to abseiling and hiking. But as with mainland Portugal, my money’s on the food and the festivals – the hiking and biking should be seen strictly as an appetite stimulant. A surprisingly large number of quality restaurants are found all over the island, not just in Funchal (although stroll down to the harbour and the Old Town – Zona Velha – and you’ll wonder if you need to go any further afield).
‘Funchal’ was so-named because of the abundance of local fennel (funcho), and you can expect plenty of chefs making use of the fact in their local dishes. But fish is of course the real treat. Local specialties include peixe espada (a kind of black swordfish) that can be grilled, fried with banana or cooked com vinho ealhos (in wine and garlic). Then there’s the delicate bodião (parrot fish) and salmonete (red mullet).
For restaurants, Rua de Santa Maria is a good place to start for more reasonably priced local food – try O Jango (166 Rua de Santa Maria, 291 211 280). Just opposite Blandy’s Madeira Lodge, you’ll find the Golden Gate (29 Avenida Arriaga. 291 234 383) which runs over two floors and is very popular – and open until 2am. Down by the harbour, Doca do Cavacas (Estrada Monumental, Ponta de Cruz, 291 762 057) is the place to go for fresh fish, just pulled out of the sea. Among the late-opening options are Dó Fá Sol (Largo das Fontes, 291 241 464), open, often with live music, until 4am. And leave room for the local Madeira cake – though here is means a molasses-based spicy bolo de mel (honey cake).
Carnival season begins in February and marks the beginning of Lent. Like Lisbon and Oporto, Funchal celebrates Mardi Gras with a parade (Cortejo Alegórico) through the whole town. And again like the mainland, you’re likely to stumble across the saint’s day or feast day at whatever time of year you visit.
Best of Madeira
Sé Cathedral
Probably the most central point of Fuchal, so a good place to orientate yourself. Built between 1493 and 1514 by Gil Eanes, it’s an interesting mix of European and Moorish architecture.
The Gardens
Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro (São Gonçalo, 291 793 044). Owned by the Blandy family, and now part of a luxury hotel, this was originally built as a hunting lodge, and houses Madeira’s most famous gardens. Also try the Monte Palace Tropical Garden (Monte, 291 74 26 50).
Cabo Girão
The world’s second-highest (2,001-foot) sea cliffs. Best viewed by boat – trips leave daily from Funchal marina.
Afternoon tea at Reid’s Palace
Okay, so this is old school, blue rinse central, but it’s still one of the classic things to do in Corsica, like having a Singapore Sling in Raffles, or a Martini at the Savoy’s American Bar.
The beach on Porto Santo island
Just 50 miles off the northeastern shore of Madeira, Porto Santo has the long stretch of sandy beach so lacking on the main island (although back on Madeira, the town of Calheta has recently imported tons of sand to create its own sandy haven). The capital is Vila Baleira and this is where most of the restaurants are. There is an airport on Porto Santo, and it’s just a 15 minute flight from Madeira – or a lovely boat ride that leaves houly from Funchal marina.
Ilhas Selvagens (Savage Islands)
A group of small volcanic islands, now a nature reserve, that are 100 miles south of Funchal, and make a very interesting day trip. Jacques Cousteau used to dive here.
São Vicente
You can either surf from this village on the north coast of Madeira, or take a disconcerting walk underground through the miles of volcanic tunnels.
Whale and Monk Seal viewing
Whales are an almost daily feature of the island, but the Mediterranean monk seal – the world’s rarest marine mammal – has only been spotted again recently. They were almost wiped out by fishermen, but attitudes (and, probably far more importantly, laws) have changed and now the population is growing, with three new seal pups born in 2005.
The Laurel Forest
Madeira’s last laurel forest, the biggest in Europe, has been accepted as a UNESCO world heritage site. It occupies around 15,000 hectares of the island, and is tincluded in the Madeira Natural Park as an Integral and Partial Nature Reserve. This was the forest that covered much of southern Europe, before the last ice age, and is home to the laurel pigeon, a bird which used to be hunted by Madeiran farmers, but has now become something of a national celebrity.
The Santa Maria Galleon
Touristy, yes. But if you want the full Madeiran experience, take a night trip out on the Santa Maria Galleon, a recreation of a 15th Century ship. Sails from Funchal Marina (291 220 327).
Madeiran Wine
Madeira is most famous for its wine – which is not dissimilar to port, but is enjoying less of an international renaissance. It’s fortified with a minimum 19 percent alcohol, and has a distinctive ‘almost but not quite oxidised flavour’ that gives it a long life span, and a range of styles from the dry Sercial, to lusciously sweet Malmsey. The best bottles have reached their 10th birthday – and plenty last and improve for over 50 years.
Some names to look out for while you’re there:
The Madeira Wine Company – Try their pompously titled Duke of Clarence Rich Madeira (part of the rather more unfortunately titled Blandy brand – someone should really have a word with these people). This is the oldest surviving British presence on the wine map (in fact, all of the struggling companies banded together to form this one), and is now controlled by the Symington family, who are big in port. You can visit their Blandy Lodge (28 Avenida Arriaga, 291 740 110, closed Sun).
Barbeito – good single cask colheitas (Estrada Monumental 145, Funchal, www.vinhosbarbeito.com)
Henriques and Henriques – the biggest independent Madeira shipper, and makers of some of the island’s best wines. Their 15 year old Verdelho is particularly good (Estrada de Santa Clara, 10, 9300-145 Camara de Lobos)
