The creases that line Phnom Penh’s crumbling facade belie a hidden beauty that once made the city the “Pearl of Asia”, one of the most captivating in the East. War and revolution damaged much of its former grace, as it was the scene of the genocide enforced by the Khmer Rouge in the 1970s that is still vivid in the memory of many of the surviving citizens.
Yet the weight of history on the Cambodian capital only makes it all the more fascinating, from the raised monuments to the process of rebuilding. Beyond the chaos of markets and motorbikes there remain more than a few glimpses of the surviving glories of a city renowned for its stunning architectural wonders. French villas and leafy boulevards add a Gallic flourish to a city imbued with the soul of Old Asia, from the dynastic palaces and ancient shines to the unregulated patchwork of traditional life that continues with an admirable and earthy stoicism.
Where to stay
The charming and elegant Raffles hotel is popular for business travellers, with spacious suites within walking distance of the city centre. The Himawari Apartments are less formal but extremely comfortable and feel like a home away from home.
Where to eat
Mith Samlanh is so friendly and the food so good that you might be surprised to learn that it’s actually a not-for-profit NGO project in the vein of Britain’s ‘Jamie’s Kitchen’. You’ll struggle to find better Asian cuisine elsewhere, too, though Japanese-influenced Origami is another great venue.
What to see
The Royal Palace is impressive and the Russian Market is full of life. The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is a chilling testament to the victims of the Khmer Rouge; alternatively, visit the Killing Fields themselves where many of the executions took place.
